Friday, 11 May 2012

As seen on Top Gear


Blog time I think!

So this blog isn’t about the aldea, is about my recent travels to the beautiful country of Bolivia! We recently took 2 weeks out of work as we needed to cross a border to renew our visas and saw the opportunity to take a holiday while we were there. 

The journey there was incredibly eventful. We first had to get to Lima which in a bus took 13 hours, however we broke this up by making a brief stop in the city of Trujillo to stretch our legs and save some money on a direct bus. Trujillo is a lovely city although sadly we only saw a very small part of it as Louise tripped and fell into a fountain 10 minutes after arriving and badly sprained her ankle and cut her leg. We ended up spending all our time in Trujillo with the local police officers who were very helpful and insisted on staying with us until Louise was ready to hobble off to catch the bus. Her ankle stayed swollen and bruised the entire 2 weeks of our trip which sucked but she soldiered on. The next bus we took was to Lima which was overnight. We arrived at around 5 am and had arranged to meet 4 other volunteers in Miraflores at around 9am so hopped in a taxi hoping to find somewhere open for a coffee whilst we waited. We arrived at parque Kennedy and waited a short while for the MacDonald’s to open (the only thing open at that time) so we could grab some coffee and sit with our rucksacks. At about 8 we realised that it would be possible to catch a bus to La Paz at 9am which would give us an extra day in Bolivia and 1 day less in Lima so we flagged down a taxi and got in.

 Everything seemed fine at first, there was a lot of traffic as it was rush hour and we didn’t seem to be getting there very quickly so the driver turned off onto one of the less busy streets and explained this would be quicker as there was less traffic. He continued to go into smaller and smaller streets, going deeper into the poorest areas of Lima. We asked if he knew where the bus terminal was and his answer was “yes it’s just round this corner”. We knew fine well it wasn’t round the corner so just assumed he didn’t know where it was so got his to ask directions. The man he asked told him it was miles back the way we came and when we asked the driver where we were going he again said “it’s just round this corner” that’s when we started to feel uneasy. At one point he crashed the car into a lamppost down one of the backstreets; he quickly backed up and drove on. When he reached another spot where there were less people he got out, took a good look at the car and got back in. By this time we had been in the taxi for an hour and a half and had missed any chance of catching the bus anyway. Louise said to him “look sir, the bus has gone, we’ve been here an hour and a half and we’re lost, we want to get out so we can get another taxi’ That’s when he started speaking in English,  he said “ok, I’m sorry, I want your money, your documents, your passports and everything” it took a minute for me to register what he had said and what was going on and my mind blacked out for a few seconds altogether. It was only when Lou, who was sitting in the front, started crying that I even realised he was pointing a gun at us! I took all the money that I had on me out and threw it at him, Louise did the same, shaking her purse out and handing him all the money we had. He then started yelling at us in English “get down, get down” By this point, Louise was crying uncontrollably and I felt seriously sick and generally terrified. I didn’t know what he was trying to say so I was shouting at him too “what do you mean, get down or get out?! Get down or get out?!” With my yelling and Louise having a minor panic attack in the car he freaked out a little, pushed open my door and told us to get out. For some reason I grabbed my rucksack from the back and Louise managed to grab hers too, I also said “thank you” to him but I’m not sure why. He drove off leaving us safe with all our stuff minus 400 sol! Thankfully I had all the passports, bank cards, documents and important things in a money belt under all my clothes so he didn’t know I had them and fortunately got away with everything. As Louise was still hobbling from Trujillo I helped he across the street where a bunch of the locals helped us out. They gave Louise stuff to drink as she kept vomiting up water and calmed her down whilst I phoned the other volunteers and our desk officer. The local people were so kind and helpful to us which was especially good as our nerves were in bits. There was even a guy who spoke good English who turned up and helped us. He accompanied us to the local police station and translated all the bits we couldn’t say (fair to say our English wasn’t very good at this point let alone our Spanish). I then had to go and identify the place where the car had crashed whilst Louise stayed in the station. The locals again were very keen to help, I had originally thought the car was white but they told us it was grey which obviously was going to be a better lead than what my confused memory was saying to them.  They also told the police what they had seen of the man and what kind of car it was, all stuff that wasn’t quite clear to me at this point. After we had given all our details to the local police force we were driven to the tourism police offices where we spent hours giving full statements and getting questioned. We were absolutely shattered by the end of the day and thankfully the director of the project in lima let us stay 2 nights with the other  Project Trust girls to chill out and prepare for the next big event…the 30 hour bus to La Paz.

The bus to La Paz thankfully went really smoothly. We watched movies and slept most of the time so it passed fairly quickly. The first night in La Paz was spent with the Bolivia volunteers. It was Jacks birthday so we went to their house for drinks then hit the town. It was really good seeing them again as the last time we saw them all was on training! We spent the next 2 days in La Paz, sightseeing and generally chilling out. We also ate our first curry in 9 months at the “world’s highest curry house” which was awesome! After La Paz we headed to the capital city of Sucre. Whilst there we went to an amazing market in Tarabuco where I bought a ridiculous amount of Alpaca jumpers and socks, ate some local street food and basically just did the whole gringo thing. The day we left Sucre we spent at “Cretaceous Park”. Basically 30 years ago a cement company unearthed a wall covered in more than 5000 dinosaur footprints which is apparently the most found in the world. There’s a museum there now with skeletons and models of the dinosaurs which have been made to be exactly as the dinosaurs would have been. For a dinosaur freak like me it was pretty cool and I really enjoyed it! Next we headed to the city of Potosi which I’ve been told is the world’s highest city (?). Sadly the only thing there really is to do in Potosi is visit the mine which neither myself nor Louise were keen on as small spaces just don’t do it for us. However we heard that it was an amazing place and an amazing experience. In Potosi we were feeling a little homesick. The experience in Lima was still fresh in our minds and we had since had another close encounter with a taxi on our way to the hostel in Potosi so we decided to take it easy for a couple of nights. We made spag bol, bought 9 movies for 50p on the street (totally illegal but sooo cheap!) and spent a day lounging about, watching movies, drinking tea and feeling like we were at home again! Sounds like a bit of a waste of a day but we haven’t felt so relaxed in a long time! That evening was spent playing cards with our dorm mates, drinking something vile we called “Raz” and building a fort out of our bunk beds (yes I think we had probably drank too much “Raz”).  After Potosi came the big trip. Bolivia’s claim to fame. The Salar De Uyuni. 

We arrived in Uyuni at 5pm on the Wednesday and spent 1 night in the backpacker’s hostel there. We’d booked a spot on a tour leaving the next morning with the Bolivian Project Trust in country reps, who also happen to run Salar de Uyuni trips! There was a group of 6 of us altogether. Myself, Louise, Rudy from New Zealand, Alan from Hong Kong and Clement and Basilia from France. It was a pretty awesome group; we all got along really well and had some great banter. We spent 3 days touring round the area of the Salar. The first day we visited the Salt flats themselves along with the Train cemetery, salt hotel, salt museum and Los ojos del Salar. The Salt flats are like nothing I’ve ever seen before. It’s just white as far as the eye can see and I’m guessing further. The sky was so clear that it contrasted amazingly with the salt. It was amazing fun to take photos on too! We got hold of a plastic toy dinosaur and got some great shots with that along with some cool jumping photos and general silliness. In the evening we sat playing cards and drinking vino with the group. We managed to get a 15 person game of presidents going which was great fun! The next day was pretty busy. We visited lots of volcanic rock formations, mineral mountains and loads of stunning lagoons including Laguna Colorada; a lagoon which is made bright red by algae and microscopic organisms. We also saw a surprising amount of wildlife like wild chinchillas which were adorable, llamas, alpacas and in the lagoons were huge amounts of “Sexy Flamingos” as our guide liked to call them. I was surprised to see flamingos in such a cold climate but apparently their really keen on the algae in the lagoons so they stay there most of the year then fly to Chile. The 3rd and final day was a long one. We got up at 5am and headed to the volcanic geysers. It was Baltic cold despite the fact the ground was spitting out 190DC air! People had warned me it would be cold but I didn’t realise how bad it would be. When we got to the hot springs I could even face the 10 second freezing cold walk from the changing rooms to the hot water, neither could anyone else in our group so we all passed on the chance of our first wash in 3 days! The final stop on the tour was “Laguna Verde” and “Volcan Lincancabur”. We then dropped Alan off at the border to Chile so he could continue on from there whilst the rest of us headed for the long journey back to Uyuni. Back in Uyuni Lou and I made the decision just to go straight home to Piura in the quickest time possible. We hopped on the bus to La Paz from Uyuni, and then straight on a bus from La Paz to Lima (another 30 hour trip) then after 3 hours in Lima, got straight on a bus to Piura. It was as quick as we could possibly make it although it still took us a total of 58 hours on a bus… 

So that’s the tales from Bolivia! I’ve been home in the Aldea for just over a week now and found settling back in far easier this time round after travels. Not much has changed in the Aldea, however in my town of Piura there has been a significant change. On which has made my life here very different...the supermarkets are finally selling bacon! In total, I only have around 9 weeks left here which is pretty scary as I’m sure I’ve said before the time is flying by. In 3 months’ time I’ll be home with my family and sleeping in my own bed and starting yet another chapter of my life. It’s crazy to think that it’s almost been a year! 

Anyway, Ill close up for now. Watch this space!
BYEE